BRAMBLE BERRY AND SOAP QUEEN TUTORIAL
FEATURING LINGONBERRY SPICE FRAGRANCE OIL
This Lingonberry Spice Soap has a rustic-chic look that’s perfect for the holidays and beyond. The bars have a white base and Activated Charcoal pencil lines. To make the top look festive, there are rose hips and dried leaves.
This tutorial is in imperial, so please use the Bramble Berry Lye Calculator to change it to metric measurements.
Some of the ingredients may be slightly different, but you can substitute everything but the fixed oils.
Of course, how the soap feels is just as important. The recipe is made with new lingonberry seed oil, which has a silky and lightweight texture on the skin. The soap also features skin-loving Shea Butter and Cocoa butter.
Due to the large amount of titanium dioxide, the recipe has a 15% water discount to prevent glycerin rivers. The slow-moving oils keep the soap workable, but be ready to work quickly.
Lingonberry Spice Cold Process Soap
Author: Bramble Berry
Recipe type: Cold Process
- 5 Pound Mold with Sliding Bottom - 2 x loaf moulds - one small or medium, and one regular or Wooden
- Silicone Liner for 5 Pound Wood Mold
- 2.8 oz. Shea Butter (5%)
- 7 oz. Canola Oil (12.6%) - from the supermarket
- 1.1 oz. Castor Oil (2%)
- 2.8 oz. Deodorized Cocoa Butter (5%)
- 14 oz. Coconut Oil (25.1%)
- 2.8 oz. Lingonberry Seed Oil (5%) * can be substituted SAP (bar) Value: 0.14
- 14 oz. Palm Oil (25.1%)
- 11.2 oz. Sunflower Oil (20.1%) - from the supermarket
- 7.8 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Lye
- 15.6 oz. Distilled Water (15% water discount) - from the supermarket
- 3 oz. Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil
- Titanium Dioxide
- Activated Charcoal
- Rose Hips - from the health food store or herbal supplier, or your garden
- Dried Leaves - from the supermarket, Indian grocery store or your garden
- Slowly and carefully add 7.8 ounces of lye to 15.6 ounces of distilled water. Gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved. Set it aside to cool. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. For this recipe, you’d add 3.5 teaspoons sodium lactate.
- Melt and combine 2.8 ounces of shea butter, 7 ounces of canola oil, 1.1 ounces of castor oil, 2.8 ounces deodorized cocoa butter, 14 ounces of coconut oil, 2.8 ounces of lingonberry seed oil, 14 ounces of palm oil (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning), and 11.2 ounces of sunflower oil into a large mixing bowl. Add 4 teaspoons of titanium dioxide into the oils and use the stick blender to mix in the colorant thoroughly. Make sure there are no clumps.
- Once the lye water and the oils have cooled to 130 degrees F or below (and are ideally within 10 degrees of each other), add the lye water to the oils and stick blend the mixture to a thin trace.
- Add 3 ounces of Lingonberry Spice Fragrance Oil. Use the stick blender to stir in the fragrance and pulse sparingly.
- Once the soap is thick enough to support layers on top, spoon ¼ of it (about 20 ounces) into the mold. Tap down, and use a small spoon to create peaks and divots down the length of the mold.
- Very carefully, spoon a small amount of activated charcoal into the powder duster. Then, use your finger to gently “tap” the duster, allowing a small amount of powder to fall onto the soap. Working quickly but carefully, cover the soap with a thin layer of charcoal.
- Use a spoon or spatula to plop another 20 ounces of soap into the mold, covering the charcoal layer below completely. Use a spoon to smooth out the layer and create peaks and divots. Lightly cover this layer of soap with activated charcoal.
- Repeat this process with another 20 ounces of soap, and one more layer of activated charcoal.
- Plop the remaining soap into the mold. Use a large spoon to evenly distribute the soap and create a smooth top.
- Use a fork to create texture from one side of the mold to the other width-wise until you have covered the complete length of the mold.
- Place dried rose hips in the center of the mold. Place them where you want the center of your bars to be. Where you place the rose hips will decide how big you’d like the bars. Then, place 1-2 myrtle leaves next to the rose hip.
- Spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol to prevent soda ash. If you live in a very hot climate, place the soap in the fridge or freezer for several hours to prevent gel phase. If not, the soap can stay on the counter uncovered.
- Allow the soap to stay in the mold for 2-3 days. Unmold, and cut into bars. Clean up the activated charcoal lines if necessary. Allow them to cure for 4-6 weeks and enjoy.