Morgan's Hair Conditioners, Creams and Hair Masque
  • Difficulty Intermediate

Details

Morgan Faie's Conditioner Formulae

Conditioning Emulsifier is so extraordinarily gentle and mild, its applications are not solely limited to wash off products - it can also be included in your lotion and crème formulations. Its inclusion as part of your ordinary Emulsifying system makes for an elegant emulsion that leaves the skin with a soft and conditioned after feel and contributes to the moisturising effect of your formulation. Rather than just performing as an emulsifying agent, it actually adds to the benefits of your product. The Cetearyl Alcohol content makes it an excellent thickening agent, which may also negate the use of stearic acid in your lotions and creams.


Scroll down to view recipes.

  • Natural Nutrition Conditioner
  • Super Detangling Conditioner
  • Hair Transformation Masque
  • Basic Conditioning Emulsifier Lotion
  • Fruit Extract Lotion

NB: A note on the percentage formulation with regards to Preservative and Essential Oil or Fragrance usage: In order to have the formulation equal exactly 100%, we are taking into account that some people will use minimal preservative and some will like a heavily fragranced product, and others prefer a subtle scent, there is room to adjust the percentages within these formulations - just ensure you adjust the amount of Water accordingly.



Natural Nutrition Conditioner

This formulation starts to incorporate the natural benefits of the oils we all love to include in our lotions and creams. Jojoba Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Hemp Oil. Any or all of these can be combined by themselves or in a combination to impart different qualities to your conditioner. Typically heavier oils are better for thicker or drier hair, and lighter oils are better for fine and oily hair types. You can further tailor your formulation with the inclusion of Essential Oils suited for your chosen hair type.
This Recipe makes 200ml - to increase the volume use the percentage amounts to keep your formulation in balance.

Phase A

  10g Conditioning Emulsifier (5%)
180g Distilled Water (90% - adjust as necessary to make formulation to 100%)
    6g Carrier oil (Liquid Oil of choice) (3%)

Phase B

1 - 2g Preservative (0.5 - 1%)
2 - 6g Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice (1 - 3%)

Method

 

  • Combine the Phase A ingredients and heat to 80°C whilst stirring
  • When homogenous take off the heat and stir periodically while cooling, then add the required percentage of preservative for the brand you are using at the recommended temperature (which is generally 0.5 - 1% added at around 40 deg C) and mix well to combine
  • Then add any Essential Oils or Fragrance that you wish to, mixing well to combine



Creamy Avocado Hair Conditioner

This is soooo easy to make - and is a gorgeous creamy lotion consistency as we use a combination of Emulsifiers. If you prefer to use another oil, rather than Avocado, it works really using Hemp or Apricot Kernel Oils too.

This recipe makes 400g.

Phase A

336g Distilled Water or Floral Water (84%)

Phase B

  12g Emulsifying Wax NF (3.5%)
  18g Conditioning Emulsifier (4.5%)
    4g Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol (1%)
    4g Vitamin E (1%)
  15g Avocado Oil (3.75%)

Phase C

   1g Guar Conditioner (0.25%)
   4g Hydrolyzed Wheat or Oats (1%)

Phase D

 3g Phenoserve (0.75%)
 1g Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice (0.25%) - I really like Bramble Berry Energy in this formulation

Method:

  • Heat Phase A (Distilled Water) to 75°C (Cover the container to avoid evaporation)
  • Add phase C to the water. The Guar conditioner needs to be hydrated well prior to use, so stir well, then add the Protein. Allow this to rest, covered for 30 minutes.
  • Now heat Phase B ingredients until fully liquid and around 75°C
  • Ensure both Phases are at 70°C (reheat the Water & Guar if necessary to bring the temperature back up)and combine Phase A and B and MANUALLY stir to combine. The mixture will immediately become creamy and only needs a hand stir, not a stick blender.
  • Allow to cool to approximately 40°C, stirring occasionally during the cooling time
  • Now add the Fragrance or Essential Oils and the Phenoserve (Preservative)
  • Bottle in Malibu Tubes or bottles and seal when cold



Super Detangling Conditioner

This formula incorporates silicone, namely Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone. These are in every commercial detangling formulation, and are listed under our Emollients.

The next time you are in a hair care salon, or a place like Price Attack that specialises in hair and skin care products or even supermarket, suss out the hair care section and keep your eyes peeled for defrizzing serums. Look at the ingredients and the two key ingredients are Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone. There are dozens of different brands available, and some have only pure silicone oils in them, whilst others incorporate proteins, fragrance, sunscreens and other ingredients. Obviously the serums that only list the silicones will have a higher % of the same, however any of the defrizz serums can be used in the following formula with varying results.
This Recipe makes 200ml - to increase the volume use the percentage amounts to keep your formulation in balance.

Phase A

165g Distilled Water (80% - adjust as necessary to make formulation to 100%)
  10g Conditioning Emulsifier (5%)
    2g Jojoba Oil (1%)

  20g Defrizz Solution - these are Silicone Oils (10%)
       OR
  10g Cyclomethicone (5%)
  10g Dimethicone (5%)

Phase B

1 - 2g Preservative (0.5 - 1%)
2 - 6g Essential Oils or Fragrance (1 - 3%)

Method

  • Combine the Phase A ingredients and heat to 80°C whilst stirring
  • When homogenous take off the heat and stir periodically while cooling
  • Then add the required percentage of preservative for the brand you are using at the recommended temperature (which is generally 0.5 - 1% added at around 40°C)and mix well to combine
  • Then add any Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice that you wish to, mixing well to combine



Hair Transformation Masque

This formula has been especially created for those who try to avoid the use of preservative systems in their products. As you know any formulation that includes water necessitates the use of a preservative system of some kind. If you are careful not to introduce water into this formula, either through using a Malibu Tube or ensuring you use a spatula to scoop out of the pot, you should achieve purity for between 6-12 months.

This is a combination of two classical hair treatments, a conditioner and a deep treatment hair oil. The problem with hair oils is that they need shampooing out after application to remove the greasiness, often several times. This can defeat the purpose of applying the treatment in the first place! Classical conditioners are only around 10% nutrients and 90% water, which means you are only applying 10% nourishment to your hair. This is fine for every day conditioning, but there are times when your hair could use a little deeper care. This formula includes an abundance of oils and butters that are wonderful for your hair, and the inclusion of the Conditioning Emulsifier means that the instant the masque touches water it is instantly transformed into conditioner, rinsing away effortlessly without any greasy residue. This means you are applying the maximum nourishment directly to your hair and scalp, and then when the treatment has finished it simply washes clean away – no need to use shampoo. You really have to try this to believe it! It is so easy, its amazing !! This recipe makes 400ml.

 60g Conditioning Emulsifier (15%)
  20g Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol (5%)
  20g Polysorbate 20 (5%)
  40g Jojoba Oil (10%)
200g Rice Bran Oil (50%)
  60g Organic Shea Butter (15%)
Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice


Method

  • Combine all the ingredients into a pyrex jug and gently heat over a double boiler or in a microwave until all ingredients are melted and combined.
  • Allow to cool, stirring periodically. You should end up with a thick cream.
  • This can be applied to either freshly washed, damp hair, or straight onto dry locks.

To Use

Massage along the full length of the hair shaft and into the scalp – you want to moisturise there too! It’s a non drip formula so it shouldn’t leave a mess, but you can cover your head with a shower cap or wrap if you desire. Leave in for desired length of time. 5 minutes for a light treatment, 15 minutes for a deeper treatment, longer if desired. Rinse thoroughly under warm running water and your hair will be left tangle free and deeply moisturised.

This treatment can be easily customised depending on your hair type. You don’t have to use Rice Bran Oil, you can use Olive, Sweet Almond, Macadamia or any oil you like. You can use Calendula Infused Oil if you are a blonde, or Hibiscus Infused Oil for brunettes to enhance highlights. If you don’t have Shea Butter, experiment with Cocoa Butter or Coconut Oil. I haven’t included any specific Essential Oils in the formula above, but you can add any Essential Oils you like either for scent or for their hair care benefits. If the formula is too thick for your liking reduce the percentage of Butter and increase the Liquid Oil content. Alternatively, if it’s too thin increase the percentage of Butters or Cetearyl and decrease the Liquid Oil content.

The ESSENTIAL ingredient in this formula is the Conditioning Emulsifier. Don't be tempted to switch the Conditioning Emulsifier for ordinary Emulsifying Wax as you won't be satisfied with the results. It is the unique composition of the Conditioning Emulsifier that makes this masque work so well. It is best stored in a tub, rather than a tube.

 

Basic Conditioning Lotion

This formulation is an adaptation of a formula provided by the manufacturer of the Conditioning Emulsifier. Their original formula included both mineral oil and lanolin. Many manufacturers and end users are looking to avoid both petroleum based products and animal products, so these have been substituted for veggie alternatives. Due to the superior emulsifying and conditioning properties of this Conditioning Emulsifier, only a few basic ingredients are needed to form a really nice lotion. The Conditioning Emulsifier will act as a thickener in this lotion, so there should be no need for other thickening agents such as Stearic Acid, which will also cut down on the white film which is often associated with lotions. This formulation also uses the Conditioning Emulsifier as the primary and only emulsifier, so any other emulsifying systems are not required.

This recipe makes 200g - to increase the volume use the percentage amounts to keep your formulation in balance.

Phase A

165g Distilled Water (80% - adjust as necessary to make formulation to 100%)
  10g Glycerine (5%)

Phase B

  10g Carrier oil of choice - Sweet Almond, Apricot, Avocado, Hemp, Fractionated Coconut Oil etc (5%)
    4g Soft butter of choice - Liquid Shea, Shea, Mango, Olive etc - (2%)
    8g Conditioning Emulsifier (4%)

Phase C

     2g Preservative (1%)
1 - 3g Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice (1-3%)

 

  • Heat Phase A and Phase B separately until both are at 75°C
  • Slowly add Phase A to Phase B and mix until emulsified
  • Stir periodically while cooling, then add the required percentage of preservative for the brand you are using at the recommended temperature (which is generally 0.5 - 1% added at around 40°C)and mix well to combine
  • Then add any Essential Oils or Fragrances that you wish to, mixing well to combine.



Herbal or Fruit Extract Lotion

This is another adaptation from a formula provided by the manufacturer. Once again their oil phase ingredient consisted of mineral oil, so in the following formulation veggie oil substitutions have been made. This formula combines both the Conditioning Emulsifier and Emulsifying Wax NF to create a very mild and stable emulsion. This combination also gives you a choice of including your favourite fruit extract, again with the view of customising it for your skin type. The formula below includes Papaya extract which is excellent for balancing oily skin and helps refine pores and also contains Vitamins A and C. You can easily substitute the Papaya Extract for any other fruit extract, such as Green Tea and Apple – YUM!
This Recipe makes 200ml - to increase the volume use the percentage amounts to keep your formulation in balance.

Phase A

   6g Conditioning Emulsifier (3%)
  20g Emulsifying Wax NF (10%)
  10g Carrier oil of choice (Sweet Almond, Apricot, Avocado, Hemp etc) (5%)

Phase B

160g Distilled Water (80% - adjust as necessary to make formulation to 100%)

Phase C

2g Herbal or Fruit Extract (1%)

1-2g Preservative (0.5 - 1%)
2 - 6g Essential Oils or Fragrance of choice (1 - 3%)

Method

 

  • Heat Phase A and Phase B separately until both are at 75°C
  • Slowly add Phase A to Phase B and mix until emulsified
  • Stir periodically while cooling, then add the required percentage of preservative for the brand you are using at the recommended temperature (which is generally 0.5 - 1% added at around 40°C), and the Herbal or Fruit extract that you wish to use, mixing well to combine.



This page and all recipes and content are copyright ©Morgan Faie 2004 and may not be reproduced in any form without written permission by the author.