Colours Hints & Tips (Melt and Pour Soap)

Working out what colour to buy can be quite confusing when you are starting out - hopefully these tips will help you find your way through the maze of colouring options for Melt and Pour Soap! Non Bleeding Colours In Soap

  • Liquid Colourants:  Wherever possible select liquid colourants as these are the easiest to work with for Melt & Pour Soap.  

  • Our colours are very concentrated so that Cold Process Soapers get a good depth of colour.  This means for Melt & Pour Soaping (and bath bombs) that you'll use a lot less in these products.

  • When using our 15 ml dropper bottles, we recommend you cut off the tip of the nozzle as it will ensure that your colour drips more readily into your soap.

  • Always use liquid colours or alternatively hydrate powdered colours into a liquid well in advance of use to cut down on speckling and spotting.

  • Using pre-hydrated colours cuts down on excessive stirring which leads to bubbles.

  • Remember to ensure that if you want your colours to stay put that you must use non-bleeding colours in Melt & Pour Soap.  It’'s very disappointing when you go back to your soap to find your red heart so carefully embedded into a white bar of soap is now no more than a hazy red/pink edged blob in the centre. As a rule of thumb, pigments do not bleed, dyes do bleed.  You can create some lovely work using bleeding colours to great effect, but mostly when soaping Melt and Pour you will want non-bleeding.

  • Check that your base is not too cool when using concentrated colours as the colour will start to “thread” as you stir it through the lukewarm base.

  • Check that your base is not too hot as this can be the cause of speckling, even if using liquid colours.

  • For best results with Micas, leave out the Titanium Dioxide and use in a clear or transluscent soap base. Micas need to reflect the light to look their best, unless of course you are planning a pastel or matte colour finish.

  • In our clear or translucent bases, we recommend about 1/2 a teaspoon per 500g to achieve a nice, strong pearly effect.

  • If using in an opaque (white Base or Goats Milk) use at 1.5% to 4% of the total weight to achieve good colour but micas work best in clear soap. Remember, light is needed for the true reflective qualities of the micas to work properly. In a white base, Micas will become a pastel, solid colour.

  • Micas are relatively simple to use, but a few can be stubborn to dissolve.  You can hydrate most in some distilled water, Sodium Lactate, Glycerine or Isopropyl Alcohol, I use small pill cups for small amounts.  Alternatively, you can add the mica powder to your melting soap base, wait for the base to melt and stir the mica in.  If stubborn little "mica bubbles" float to the top, zap them with a spritz of alcohol and you'll see them burst open. Just stir everything in until the mica is well incorporated, then add the fragrance.

  •  Each of colourants has a list of attributes and application usage tips.  Check this prior to purchase and when using so you'll achieve the look you want to achieve.

  • Natural colourants also come in a liquid or oil form and powder.  Some of these will fade, some will bleed and some won't - unfortunately with colour there is no "one size fits all" - again, usage information is listed on each one.  Clays don't bleed!