How to Make a Palm Wax Container Candle

Apart from its ease of use and biodegradability, the two best things about using Palm Wax is that it burns clean and that you can create an amazing Crystalline surface finish.

What you need:

• Palm Wax
• Fragrance
• Candle Colours if desired
• Strong or purpose made Candle Containers
• Thermometer
• Stirring Stick, chopstick or kebab stick
• Wicks - pre tabbed
• Glue Dot or small dab or blue tack or hot glue gun (or you can use a popstick or 2 skewers to centre the Wick
• Heating Vessel for the wax

Safety notice - NEVER leave your heating wax unattended. Occasionally stir the wax whilst melting to ensure that it melts evenly and doesn’t burn

1. Melt Palm Wax at a temperature of 75 C - 90 C. Do watch the wax as it should not become over-heated.

2. Pre-wick your containers whilst the wax is melting. A glue dot or some blue tack works well. Sit the jars on a double layer of old towel and place some newspaper on top of this. The towel will keep the glass containers above the cold worktop, and any spills will absorb into the newspaper

3. When the wax is completely liquid, add the colour and fragrance.

4. Stir in the fragrance and colour completely to ensure a clean and even burn. We recommend a fragrance load of 5 - 7% (This is approximately 5- 7 mls/g per 95g of Wax)

5. Allow wax to cool to approximately 75 - 80 C degrees for a Crystal effect, (or a little cooler if you don't want this effect) . Now pour into your pre-wicked containers

6. Because the wax is quite hot when you pour, check the surface during setting and if it appears as if it will dip or crack, poke an "air hole" with a wooden skewer to avoid this (top up if necessary

7. Allow your candles to cure for 48 hours before burning. The longer you wait for a cure time, the better the scent throw will be

• Make sure your wick is trimmed to about a 0.5cm (¼ inch)
• It is important for clean burning to keep the wick trimmed
• When you first burn a candle for the first time, burn for 1 hour for every 2.5 cm (1 inch) of its diameter, then extinguish. This helps prevents tunnelling
• Make sure you place the candle is on an even, heat–resistant surface whilst lit. Use a special saucer or plate and never leave burning candle unattended

• Make sure your containers are room temperature or slightly warmer before pouring
• CDN 6 Wick for our Baby Pot Bellied Jars
• CDN 8 or 10 Wick for our Victorian Apothecary Jars
• CDN 10 or 12 Wick for our Frosted Metro’s (I prefer the CDN 10)
• If the wick “drowns” in liquid wax the most likely cause is the wick is too small for your candle
• If the candle smokes when burning, and it is not in a draught, then the wick is too large. Replace with a smaller size wick
• If the candle burns to one side of the jar, the jar is either standing in a draught, or the wick is off centre
• If you have a hollow craters around your wick, heat the top of the candle up with a heat gun or Hair Dryer to allow a little wax to melt into the hollow – no need to remelt the entire candle