If you are just starting out, we realise it can be a little daunting using Sodium Hydroxide (also called Lye or Caustic Soda) and making your first batch. So we took photographs whilst making a batch of soap to help you visualise what is involved. It really isn't as frightening as you may suppose! You will probably find that you already have most of the equipment required, patiently waiting to be used to make your first batch of soap! Remember, there is no Caustic Soda/lye present in the finished soap when it has cured. This basic tutorial shows you the steps required to achieve your goal!
We suggest you read this tutorial completely through a couple of times before you begin so you know exactly what to expect!
Equipment required:
Stainless Steel Stock Pot
Sturdy Plastic Bucket/Drum
Stick Blender (wand type) with stainless steel shaft - available cheaply at all large chain stores
Measuring jugs
Accurate Scales - preferably digital - available cheaply at all large chain stores
Spatulas and strong spoons
Paper Towels
Mould (Mold) or Milk Cartons (use the Fresh Chilled Milk type cartons - Avoid the Long Life Milk Cartons)
Stainless Steel Thermometer - not absolutely necessary, but very useful
Rubber Gloves and Eye Protection
Running Water or Bucket of Water in case of spills on skin - rinse away raw soap
Spills of Raw Soap and spills need to be diluted first - if on the skin, flush with water for up to 20 minutes. Wipe up spills, wearing protective gloves, and then use soapy water and lots of it to clean up the spill.
- Lay out the equipment and ingredients. If you are prepared you are more likely to feel confident!
- Prepare the mould (mold) with a liner if necessary, or if using a milk carton, make sure it is clean and dry and you have a spare standing by - just in case!
- Carefully measure out all the ingredients and set aside. Stainless steel is best for heating the oils and mixing your soap in. These stock pots can be bought at Chain stores and supermarkets everywhere. Use a sturdy plastic bucket for the Distilled Water, and a separate one for the Caustic Soda. Ensure that you measure Essential Oils and Fragrance Oils into GLASS, not plastic.
- Take the Distilled Water, a sturdy spatula or spoon, and the Caustic Soda (lye) outside the house, or a very well ventilated area and add the Caustic Soda to the Water (It is REALLY IMPORTANT to do it this way - don't add the water to the Caustic Soda as it can be dangerous if you do it that way). This mixture is really HOT, so please take care and wear gloves and eye protection. Stir until the Caustic Soda is dissolved - AVOID INHALING THE FUMES. Allow mixture to cool (safely away from pets and small children). When this mixture cools, there will be no odour or fumes.
- Whilst the Lye/Caustic Water cools, combine all the fixed/base oils and gently heat until all ingredients are liquid and approximately 40 deg C, or a little below. If you have no thermometer, baby bottle or blood temperature is good!
- When the Lye Water has cooled to a similar temperature (approximately 40 deg C), you are ready to proceed.
- Pour the Lye water into the pot with the melted oils. Its a good idea to have your eye protection on at this point.
- Immerse the stick blender into the pot, well below the surface, and give it some blasts with the blender! You will see the mixture immediately appears creamy and oily. Your goal is to make an homogenous mixture which looks like condensed milk.
- This is trace! You are now ready to add the colour and fragrance. To avoid speckling, mix the powdered colours into water before adding them to the traced soap. Mix through with a couple of blasts, taking care not to over trace the soap. You want to avoid a thick pudding-like consistency.
- Now add the Fragrance or Essential oils - 2.5% of the Base/Fixed Oil Weight will ensure you have a safe and fragrant soap after it has cured. Stir/Blend through in short bursts, or stir manually, so that the trace is not too thick. Don't forget you can blend Essential Oils and Fragrant Oils together to achieve a fragrant and economical batch of soap. (Fragrances such as Rose and Sandalwood are very expensive, so by blending Fragrant Oils with the Essential Oils you can have the best of both worlds! The fragrances will smell quite strong as they hit the warm oils, a little like in a room diffuser when you first add the oils, so it is wise to measure the 2.5% first. Take care not to inhale the fumes too deeply, especially strong essential oils such as peppermint and rosemary, because they can be quite overpowering and you may get a headache. When your soap has cured, the strength will be just right!
- The Soap ready to pour into the mould (mold) now!
- If using a Milk Carton, carefully pour the liquid soap into the carton and then close the top. Wrap the carton in an old towel and set aside for the soap to come to "gel stage" - this is when the soap gets really hot - it does this all on its own!
- If using our Log Mould (mold) or a flat tray mould (mold), pour the soap into the mould (mold) and then cover with a piece of laminating film offcut, or plastic and put it to bed the same as the Milk Carton Soap.
- If using a divided Nizzy Mould (mold), pour the soap into the mould (mold). Then push the dividers into the soap and tap the mould (mold) to allow it to settle in, and then cover with a piece of laminating film offcut or plastic and put it to bed the same as the Milk Carton Soap.
- Unmould the soap after approximately 8 - 24 hours and cut with a Soap Cutter or knife. If your soap has stuck a little to the Nizzy divider, just slice away with a bread and butter knife. Allow to cure for a couple of weeks, and a month or so further to dry out. This will ensure your soap is much harder and lasts longer!
Enjoy your bubbles!
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