Australian regulatory Authorities regard soap as a "Cosmetic Product" and this means the Colour you choose should not be an Technical, Industrial or Commercial Grade, but of Cosmetic Standard. This means some USA purchased soap colours are NOT permitted to be used in Soap in Australia, the EU and UK. All the colours we sell are of the correct Australian cosmetic quality.
• Ultramarines: These strong powdered pigments are primarily used for Soap Colour, also used in regular and mineral makeup. These are NOT suitable use in lotions. Hydrate these powders in some water prior to adding to Soap to avoid speckling. Because these are pigments, they won't bleed when used in your soaps.
• Oxides: These are also strong, powdered pigments. Cosmetic Oxides highly refined pigments and purified to make them suitable for use on the skin. They are processed, refined and cleaned which distinguishes them from the oxides used for pottery and paints, and allows them to be approved for use in cosmetics. Suitable for Soap and Mineral Make up. Hydrate these powders in some water prior to adding to Soap to avoid speckling. Because these are pigments, they won't bleed when used in your soaps.
• Lakes: These colours are made by absorbing the dye on a substrate of pigment. This means they will bleed less in your soap, but will still bleed a little in your soap. These include some FD & C colours, but not all. Less prone to fading than regular FD & C colours, bleeding is also slightly reduced.
• FD & C Colours: These letters stand for: Food, Drugs & Cosmetics. These are dyes, and are suitable for Soap as well as cosmetics and lip balms. These colours will bleed in soap products, and also fade.
• D & C Colours: These letters stand for: Drugs & Cosmetics, (but NOT foods). Although suitable for Soap and cosmetics, they are not for Lip products or foods - external use only.
• Ext. D & C Colours: As the name implies, for use in Externally applied Drugs & Cosmetics that DO NOT come in contact with mucous membranes. They are suitable for Soap.
• In addition to these, we stock some specialty cosmetic Colours. These are the Brite Colours. The Brites are concentrated, liquid form Pigments in "Neon" colours. We stock a range of Cosmetic fluorescent liquid pigments for Cold Processed Soap and Melt & Pour Soap. Some customers like to use these in their Bath Fizzies, though they take a little more working into the dry ingredients.
• Our stunning Cosmetic Micas and Glitters are high grade, cosmetic colours. Some are pure pigments, some a mixture of pigments and dyes. Glitters are not metal based, and so are suitable for water based products, including soap. All these colours should be used in clear soap only if you want the sparkle, or on top of white soap and CP Soaps. Due to the dye content of some micas, they may bleed or morph in high pH products, so be sure to check the website for details before use.
• Candle Colours are usually pigment based, or solvent dyes, and MUST NOT BE USED ON THE SKIN AT ALL, ever.
Of the above listings, some of the FD & C, D & C and Ext D & C are used in pharmaceuticals, baby products, bath products, oral products, hair products, makeup, fragrance and nail products - but not all from each group are permissible in all categories. For instance, FD & C Blue No. 1 is permissible in each category, as is F D & C Yellow Nos. 5 & 6, but FD & C Red No. 4 is NOT allowable in pharmaceuticals, bath products & oral products, but IS allowable in baby products.
This is very confusing to begin with, but we have included the above paragraph to illustrate the complexities involved in Colour regulation in Australia.
To add to the confusion, is the fact that depending on the application, the same pigment or dye can give amazingly different results. Further considerations are the colour of your base, pH and method of production. A colourant can be a dye in one medium and a pigment in another (ie FD & C Yellow No. 5 is a dye in water and a pigment in oil). So even though we have tested and tried ALL the colours we sell, we still urge you to sample test before using in an important or large project.
"Pigments are insoluble in the medium in which they are used." The term pigment with reference to our colours refers to colours that will not bleed or mutate in your MP or CP soap. If the word "Pigment" is in the name and description, this won't bleed in your soap.
"Dyes are soluble in the vehicle in which they are used - ie dissolved in alcohol, glycerine, water, oil." Dyes tend to be more vibrant, "in your face" colours, but are not the "Neon" colours (Brites).
Lakes are very stable in Melt & Pour Soap and we have had only a little bleeding or colour migration. Pigments are the best for Melt & Pour, no bleeding. Creative projects do sometimes require the migration of colour, so each does have its place.
As a general rule dyes will be much more likely to migrate or bleed in Melt & Pour Soap and are also more likely to be affected by pH of Cold Processed Soap. We have chosen the most stable FD & C dyes to stock.
Can I Mix Pigments and Dyes Together?
There is no problem mixing dyes with pigments to make the colour you desire. But remember, if you add a dye, to a pigment, the dye component of that blend may have a tendency to migrate in Melt and Pour Soap.
Suggested Usages and Rates:
• Liquid Melt & Pour Colours: Depending on the depth of colour, we suggest you start with about 10 drops per 500g of Base and work up from there. Our Colours are all concentrated and application and personal likes and dislikes will guide your usage. The Brites will get *bolder* as you add more colour, and eventually true fluoro at full strength, and the pigments get deeper and stronger. Remember by adding an opacifier such as Titanium dioxide or Pearl Mica that this will affect the amount of colour needed to gain the shade you desire.
• Dry Dyes: Approximately 1/4 tsp of powdered colour will colour between 2 and 4 kg of Soap.
• Dry Pigments: Approximately 1 tsp of powdered pigment will colour between 2 and 3kg of Soap
• Ultramarines versus Oxides: We have personally found that we use 1/3 the quantity of Oxides in comparison to Ultramarines - we have found them to be very strong (particularly Red oxide). However, for a gentle colour there is nothing to stop adding Titanium Dioxide or white Pearl Mica to your oxides to make a more subtle shade.
• Micas: We mostly recommend the Micas for Melt & Pour Soap and Body Products, but good results have been achieved with Cold Processed Soap, particularly when a swirl technique is used. Micas need light to be reflected to be seen at their best. If you wish to high light your colour, just add Pearl Mica and it will pearlise any of your colours. To gain more depth from say a red, use a red or pink colour base, and add to this Red Mica and you will achieve an intensity of colour that’s hard to match, as well as have a bar of Melt & Pour Soap that glistens beautifully.
Will they keep?
If you purchase a powdered colour, it will keep indefinitely if kept in a sealed opaque or dark container. If it is in a translucent container, just pop it into a cupboard.
If you mix your colours in water, (please use distilled water) be aware this will grow bacteria (like a lotion without a preservative) eventually. If suspended in oil or glycerine, the normal shelf life of the medium applies. If stored for a period of time without use, liquid colours will need a good shake or stir as they may settle.
Credits: Jude Birch, Dr Samuel Zukerman, Warner-Jenkinson, Kaila Westerman