Basic Instructions for Making Moisturisers at Home

The purpose of these instructions are to introduce you to the concept of making your own economical, natural as possible, and safe skincare preparations.

As with any new craft experience or new venture, there is usually some anxiety or apprehension, it’s basically unavoidable. We hope by keeping the instructions simple, like cooking recipes, but still containing enough detail or explanation, you will be able to avoid some of the anxiety. The more confidence you have the more enjoyable the experience! Lotion making is not as difficult as you may think, and creating a balance of ingredients to suit your personal needs is the secret. For a more comprehensive give, we have compiled our Workshops into a Booklet which is available to purchase, and has a lot more information and many formulas for you to try. You can purchse this Moisturiser Booklet Here

Basically creams and lotions are an emulsion of oils and water. Depending on what we put in them, they can do wonderful things for our skin. The beauty of making your own is that you have total control over what you include in them!

It is important when starting out, to identify which ingredients are "water" and which are "oil or wax". The "incidentals" like fragrance, anti-oxidants and preservatives set aside for later.

Equipment:

As ongoing cleanliness is MOST IMPORTANT, you would be wise to purchase economical, but new equipment, just for your cream and lotion making. Keep these in a bag or box so that they are always clean and dust free, and ensure they don’t get used for food preparation or soap making. This avoids cross-contamination and helps to keep things safe.

• Stainless Steel or Glass Thermometer
• Accurate kitchen scales - preferably digital
• Disposable Gloves
• Ceramic or Pyrex Jugs and Mixing Bowls
• Double Boiler or Bain Marie (if you don’t intend using a microwave)
• Spatulas and Scrapers
• Very clean or sterile Cosmetic Jars/Tubes/Malibu Tubes
• Stainless Steel Stick Blender (not aluminium)
• pH Strips (not absolutely necessary, but very useful)
• Isopropyl Alcohol (Used for sterilising and cleaning benches/equipment)

Sterilising Equipment and Work Surfaces

There are several methods that can be used to sterilise including Boiling, Antibacterial Tablets, the Dishwasher and Bleach. However, we will briefly explain how to use Alcohol (Isopropyl Alcohol) to clean equipment/surfaces. It is not a good steriliser for very dirty surfaces, but does quite a good antibacterial job on clean surfaces, especially if given a couple of minutes to work. This means that you should ensure that surfaces are cleaned initially by using your usual methods.

It's a good idea to keep a spritzer bottle handy, filled with the alcohol. Whenever you feel that something needs the extra "clean" boost, you can spritz it thoroughly. Let the alcohol sit for a minute or two, then wipe dry with a clean paper towel and dispose of the towel. Alternatively let the items/surface air dry. Thoroughly spritz clean jars, lids and, pumps, tubes and sprayers with alcohol and let air dry.

It's also a good idea to use a new roll of paper towels each time. If you don't use all the towels, you can still use them for general household cleaning, but using a new roll each time you craft helps reduce the possibility of contamination.

Spritz other clean containers or utensils (bowls, spoons, etc) with the alcohol and let them sit for a minute or two, then wipe dry with clean paper towels.

You can keep sterilised equipment "clean" by cleaning then spritzing them with alcohol after use.

1. Weigh and measure all ingredients - set aside Essential Oils or Fragrant Oils, Preservatives, Vitamin E and Rosemary Oleoresin Extract for "last". Measure these into GLASS, not plastic.

2. Place all Water Phase Fluids - i.e. Water, Milk, Aloe Vera, Glycerine, Floral Waters or Herbal Infusions required by recipe in the largest size Pyrex or Heat resistant measuring jug or bowl, then heat in Microwave for approx 3 minutes or until 75-80 C. Use a thermometer so that you KNOW the temperature - it is really important

3. Remove and cover to avoid the mixture cooling and steam evaporation. Use a bowl large enough so that the fluids are approximately 1/3 the volume of the bowl. This will allow room for remaining ingredients and will be deep enough so that when all the ingredients are combined there is sufficient space to blend without overflowing over the side. (This means any splatter from the mixer won't be all over the place and the stick blender won't whizz the cream over the top of the rim)

4. Add Citric (if using) to Water Phase and mix with mixing spoon for a few seconds until dissolved. Set this aside.

5. Place Oil Phase Oils, Butters (except Shea Butter), Waxes, Stearic, Emulsifying Waxes into 2-5 cup Pyrex or Heat proof measuring jug or cup. Heat in microwave for approximately 2 minutes or until all the contents are melted and are 75-80 C. For smaller watt microwaves you may need to adjust time to melt sufficiently. Adjust in 10 second bursts at a time. Remove from the heat and gently stir through the Shea Butter until melted. Make sure all Emulsifying Wax has melted as it can be a little slower . Use a thermometer so that you KNOW the temperature - it is really important

6. Now re-check the temperature of the Water Phase. If this has dropped below 70 C give it a quick blast of heat to bring the temp back up again. Then pour contents of the Oil Phase into the Water Phase, mixing with the stick blender or electric beaters. (Some books will direct you to pour the Water into the Oil, but I have never had a problem combining phases this way, which is the method I was taught, and to me it seems more logical! Blend for approximately 2 minutes on High - contents will froth and rise slightly. (If you using a stick blender you may reduce this time slightly and be sure to keep the blades well under the surface). Now let the mixture rest a few minutes.

7. Now repeat the previous Step, but reduce the speed to medium or low and blend for an additional minute or so. The contents will be "slightly" thicker and will rise a little. Lightly cover if there is the chance of dirt/particles blowing into the bowl as the cream cools. Leave a nice air vent to allow some steam out and set aside for ½ to 2 hrs. **This is entirely dependant upon the size of the batch. Small batches will cool MUCH more quickly than large ones – the weather is also a factor. What you are looking for is for the mixture to start cooling and thickening nicely.

8. At this point the temperature should ideally be around 30-40 C. Scrape down the bowl and then give a quick mix and then add Essential Oils or Fragrant Oils, Preservative/s, Vitamin E and Herbalox. Mix on low for a couple of minutes to make sure all are combined well. Remove the beaters or stick blender, and scrape sides of bowl and stir thoroughly with a spatula.

9. Now you can either pot up the cream or lotion, or set it aside and allow 24 hours for it to set up, settle and reach maximum consistency and texture. If you are storing overnight, make sure you cover the bowl with glad wrap. (It is at this point, you just HAVE to remove a little and test it !)

10. Clean equipment and store away properly

11. After the 24 hours (if you have decided to wait), give a little light whisk and pour into tubs. If you have made a thicker cream, it will be a little more difficult to fill narrow necked containers. Make sure all containers are DRY and clean before you fill them.

12. Label and date the containers and now enjoy your creation!

    
    TIPS TO AVOID PROBLEMS:

    Always check the temperatures of each Phase - if they are too cool, the waxes will solidify, and not emulsify properly, and the cream will be gritty

    One of the biggest causes of failure when making Moisturisers is a change in the Emulsifying Wax you are using. There are dozens on the market - we sell Emulsifying Wax NF and several others. By knowing the INCI of your ingredients GUARANTEES that each new batch of wax purchased is of the same quality and ingredients and that it meets the National Standard.

    Preservatives: If there is Water (ie Distilled Water, Herbal Infusions, Floral Water, Goats Milk, Juice etc) you need to use a preservative. We use a preservative to stop bugs (mould, yeast, fungi, bacteria) which attack the cream/lotion biologically. ANTIOXIDANTS DON'T STOP BUGS. Most of the bacterial and microbial growth is already present before you can see any noticeable change in the cream. To make a SAFE cream, it should be preserved.

    DON’T USE VOLUME MEASUREMENTS - always weigh oils and water. There is such a wide variation in the volume of oils, waxes and butters, that using a volume measurement is not accurate and will result in some batches being ruined. If you always weigh all the ingredients, you will always have good results.

    
    Warning: if skin irritation should ever occur, discontinue use immediately.

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