Australian regulatory Authorities regard soap as a "Cosmetic Product" and this means the Colour you choose should not be an Industrial or Commercial Grade, but of Cosmetic Standard.
The Groups:
• Ultramarines: These strong pigments are primarily used for Soap Colour. Do NOT use in lotions.• Oxides: Are highly refined pigments that originate in the earth. They are processed, refined and cleaned which distinguishes them from the oxides used for pottery and paints, and allows them to be approved for use in cosmetics. Suitable for Soap and Mineral Make up.
• Lakes: These colours are made by absorbing the dye on a substrate of pigment. This means they will bleed less in your soap, but will still bleed a little in your soap.
• FD & C Colours: These letters stand for: Food, Drugs & Cosmetics. These are dyes, and are suitable for Soap as well as cosmetics and lip balms.
• D & C Colours: These letters stand for: Drugs & Cosmetics, (but NOT foods). Although suitable for Soap and cosmetics, they are not for Lip products or foods
• Ext. D & C Colours: As the name implies, for use in Externally applied Drugs & Cosmetics that DO NOT come in contact with mucous membranes. They are suitable for Soap.
• In addition to these, we stock some specialty Colours. These are the Brite Colours and Micas/Glitters.
• Candle Colours are usually pigment based, or solvent dyes, and MUST NOT BE USED ON THE SKIN AT ALL.
Of the above listings, some of the FD & C, D & C and Ext D & C are used in pharmaceuticals, baby products, bath products, oral products, hair products, makeup, fragrance and nail products - but not all from each group are permissible in all categories. For instance, FD & C Blue No. 1 is permissible in each category, as is F D & C Yellow Nos. 5 & 6, but FD & C Red No. 4 is NOT allowable in pharmaceuticals, bath products & oral products, but IS allowable in baby products.
This is very confusing, but we have included the above paragraph to illustrate the complexities involved in Colour regulation.
To add to the confusion, is the fact that depending on the application, the same pigment or dye can give amazingly different results. Further considerations are the colour of your base, pH and method of production. A colourant can be a dye in one medium and a pigment in another (ie FD & C Yellow No. 5 is a dye in water and a pigment in oil). So even though we have tested and tried ALL the colours we sell, we still urge you to sample test before using in an important or large project.
"Pigments are insoluble in the medium in which they are used." The term pigment with reference to our colours refers to colours that will not bleed or mutate in your MP or CP soap. These are listed "Dyes are soluble in the vehicle in which they are used - ie dissolved in alcohol, glycerine, water, oil." Dyes tend to be more vibrant, in your face colours.
Lakes are very stable in Melt & Pour Soap and we have had only a little bleeding or colour migration.
As a general rule dyes will be much more likely to migrate or bleed in Melt & Pour Soap and are also more likely to be affected by pH of Cold Processed Soap. We have chosen the most stable FD & C dyes to stock.
Can I Mix Pigments and Dyes Together?
Suggested Usages and Rates:
• Dry Dyes: Approximately 1/4 tsp of powdered colour will colour between 2 and 4 kg of Soap.
• Dry Pigments: Approximately 1 tsp of powdered pigment will colour between 2 and 3kg of Soap
• Ultramarines versus Oxides: We have personally found that we use 1/3 the quantity of Oxides in comparison to Ultramarines - we have found them to be very strong (particularly red oxide). However, for a gentle colour there is nothing to stop adding titanium dioxide or white Pearl Mica to your oxides to make a more subtle shade.
• Micas: We mostly recommend the Micas for Melt & Pour Soap and Body Products, but good results have been achieved with Cold Processed Soap, particularly when a swirl technique is used. Micas need light to be reflected to be seen at their best. If you wish to high light your colour, just add Pearl Mica and it will pearlise any of your colours. To gain more depth from say a red, use a red or pink colour base, and add to this Red Mica and you will achieve an intensity of colour that’s hard to match, as well as have a bar of Melt & Pour Soap that glistens beautifully.
Will they keep?
If you mix your colours in water, (please use distilled water) be aware this will grow bacteria (like a lotion) eventually. If suspended in oil or glycerine, the normal shelf life of the medium applies. If stored for a period of time without use, liquid colours will need a good shake or stir.
Credits: Dr Samuel Zukerman, Warner-Jenkinson, Kaila Westerman, Jude Birch
There is no problem mixing dyes with pigments to make the colour you desire. But remember, if you add a dye, to a pigment, the dye component of that blend may have a tendency to migrate in Melt and Pour Soap.
• Liquid Melt & Pour Colours: Depending on the depth of colour, we suggest you start with about 10 drops per 500g of Base and work up from there. Our Colours are all concentrated and application and personal likes and dislikes will guide your usage. The Brites will get *bolder* as you add more colour, and the pigments get deeper and stronger. Remember by adding an opacifier such as Titanium dioxide or Pearl Mica, this will affect the amount of colour needed to gain the shade you desire.
If you purchase a powdered colour, it will keep indefinitely if kept in a sealed opaque or dark container. If it is in a translucent one, just pop it into a cupboard.
